Two Guns, Arizona, stands as a haunting reminder of the American West’s tumultuous past. This ghost town, located along the historic Route 66 in Coconino County, has a rich and complex history that spans centuries, from its Native American roots to its brief heyday as a tourist attraction.
The area now known as Two Guns was originally Apache and Navajo territory. The site gained notoriety in 1878 when a group of Apaches attacked a band of Navajos who had taken shelter in a nearby cave. The Apache, seeking revenge for earlier raids, set fires at the cave’s entrance, resulting in the deaths of 42 Navajo people. This tragic event led to the cave being named the “Apache Death Cave,” a moniker that would later play a significant role in the town’s tourist appeal.
The first permanent structure in Two Guns wasn’t built until 1920 when Earle and Louise Cundiff purchased the land and established a trading post. They added a gas station and tourist camp, capitalizing on the increasing automobile traffic along the National Old Trails Road, which would later become part of Route 66.
In 1922, the Cundiffs leased a portion of their land to Henry “Two Gun” Miller, a colorful character who would give the town its name. Miller, who called himself “Chief Crazy Thunder,” despite having no Native American heritage, saw the potential for tourism in the area. He built a zoo featuring mountain lions and other local wildlife, created fake Native American ruins, and opened the cave where the Apache-Navajo conflict had occurred as a macabre tourist attraction.
Miller’s tenure in Two Guns was marked by conflict and tragedy. He had frequent disputes with the Cundiffs and was involved in several violent altercations, including shooting a man in 1926. In 1929, a fire destroyed much of the town, including Miller’s zoo. The following year, Miller shot and killed Earle Cundiff in a dispute over the lease. Although he claimed self-defense and was acquitted, this event marked the beginning of the end for Two Guns.
The town struggled on through the 1930s, with Louise Cundiff rebuilding and continuing to operate the trading post. In 1950, the property was sold to Ben Dreher, who attempted to revitalize Two Guns as a tourist stop along Route 66. He built a new service station, restaurant, and gift shop, and even reopened the mountain lion zoo for a time.
However, the completion of Interstate 40 in the 1970s, which bypassed Two Guns, dealt a fatal blow to the town’s economy. Traffic dwindled, and businesses closed one by one. A fire in 1971 destroyed many of the remaining buildings, leaving Two Guns to slowly decay into the ghost town it is today.
The ruins of Two Guns stand as a silent testament to the boom-and-bust cycle of many small towns along America’s historic highways. From its origins as a site of Native American conflict to its brief flash of prosperity as a roadside attraction, Two Guns embodies the complex and often tragic history of the American West. Today, it draws visitors not for its amenities, but for its haunting atmosphere and the stories etched into its crumbling structures.
The Apache Death Cave
The Apache Death Cave stands as a grim centerpiece in Two Guns’ history, predating the town itself and serving as a macabre tourist attraction during its brief period of prosperity. This natural cave, located near Canyon Diablo, played host to a tragic event that would shape the area’s folklore for generations to come.
In 1878, a group of Apaches raided a Navajo encampment, stealing livestock and kidnapping women and children. The Navajo warriors pursued the Apaches, who took refuge in what would later be known as the Death Cave. Discovering their hideout, the Navajo fighters decided to execute a brutal form of revenge.
The Navajo warriors gathered wood and brush at the cave’s entrance, setting it ablaze. They maintained the fire for several days, effectively trapping the Apaches inside. The smoke and heat from the fire suffocated or burned alive all 42 Apache members hiding in the cave.
This horrific event left an indelible mark on the area. When Henry “Two Gun” Miller arrived decades later, he saw the potential to capitalize on this dark history. Miller excavated the cave, allegedly discovering the remains of the Apache victims. He collected the artifacts and bones, displaying them as gruesome souvenirs for tourists.
Miller’s commercialization of the tragedy extended to creating a path down to the cave, complete with electric lights. He charged visitors for guided tours, regaling them with embellished tales of the massacre. The cave became a significant draw for the burgeoning tourist stop, appealing to travelers’ morbid curiosity.
Today, the Apache Death Cave remains accessible, though it’s no longer outfitted for tourism. The bones and artifacts have long since been removed, but the cave’s dark history continues to fascinate visitors to Two Guns. It serves as a somber reminder of the violent conflicts that often marked relations between different Native American tribes, as well as the sometimes exploitative nature of early tourism in the American West.
Visitors to the cave today are advised to exercise caution, as the structure is no longer maintained and may be unstable. The site stands as a poignant memorial to a tragic event and a testament to the complex, often painful history of the region.
Surviving Structures in Two Guns
Despite years of abandonment and the ravages of time, several structures in Two Guns remain standing, offering visitors a tangible connection to the town’s past. These weathered ruins provide a haunting glimpse into the once-thriving Route 66 stop.
Stone Trading Post
The most prominent structure still standing is the stone trading post, built in the 1920s by Earle and Louise Cundiff. This building, constructed from local stone, has withstood the test of time better than many of its wooden counterparts. The walls of this once-bustling hub of commerce remain largely intact, though the roof has long since collapsed. Visitors can still see the outlines of windows and doorways, imagining the activity that once filled this space.
KOA Campground Remnants
The ruins of a former KOA (Kampgrounds of America) campground, built in the 1970s in a final attempt to attract tourists, can still be seen. Concrete slabs that once served as RV pads are visible, along with the deteriorating remains of shower and restroom facilities. These more modern ruins stand in stark contrast to the older structures, highlighting the town’s multiple attempts at reinvention.
Gas Station
The shell of a gas station, likely dating from the 1950s when Ben Dreher attempted to revitalize the town, still stands along the old Route 66 alignment. While the pumps are long gone, the basic structure with its service bays is recognizable.
Canyon Diablo Bridge
The old bridge spanning Canyon Diablo remains an impressive sight. This steel and concrete structure, built in 1915, is no longer open to vehicular traffic but offers pedestrians a spectacular view of the canyon and the surrounding landscape. It was closed in 1938 and was listed on the National Register of Historic Places in 1988.
Zoo Cages
Scattered throughout the site are the remains of animal enclosures from the town’s days as a roadside attraction. These metal and concrete structures, now empty and rusting, once housed mountain lions and other local wildlife.
Mountain Lodge Ruins
On a bluff overlooking the canyon stand the ruins of what was once planned to be a grand mountain lodge. Only the foundation and parts of the lower walls were completed before the project was abandoned. These unfinished ruins speak to the unfulfilled dreams and ambitions that characterized much of Two Guns’ history.
Apache Death Cave Entrance
While the cave itself is a natural formation, the entrance still bears evidence of human modification. Remnants of steps and the enlarged opening created to accommodate tourists can still be seen, though they are now eroded and potentially unstable.
These enduring structures, slowly succumbing to the elements, offer a poignant reminder of Two Guns’ boom-and-bust history. They stand as silent sentinels, telling the story of grand ambitions, fleeting prosperity, and ultimate abandonment that characterizes many ghost towns of the American West.
Nearby Lodging and Attractions
Flagstaff (35 miles west) – Flagstaff serves as the primary base for visitors to Two Guns, offering the widest selection of accommodations and amenities. The historic downtown area features several boutique hotels and bed-and-breakfasts that capture the spirit of Route 66 travel, while numerous chain hotels line the interstate corridors, providing reliable accommodations with easy access to Two Guns via Interstate 40 and the old Route 66 alignment. The Little America Hotel offers an outdoor pool, a fitness center, and three daily meals plus cocktails at the Little America Restaurant and Bar.
Winslow (20 miles east) – Made famous by the Eagles song “Take It Easy,” Winslow has embraced its Route 66 heritage and offers several lodging options, including the historic La Posada Hotel and Gardens by architect Mary Elizabeth Jane Colter. Visit the art gallery and museum at the hotel and enjoy fine dining at The Turquois Room.
Meteor Crater (12 miles southeast) – One of the best-preserved meteorite impact sites on Earth, Meteor Crater offers a fascinating geological attraction near Two Guns. The crater, nearly one mile across and 550 feet deep, was formed approximately 50,000 years ago when a nickel-iron meteorite struck the high plains of northern Arizona.
Walnut Canyon National Monument (30 miles west) – This remarkable archaeological site preserves ancient cliff dwellings built by the Sinagua people over 800 years ago. The monument features a dramatic limestone canyon where visitors can explore well-preserved pueblo ruins built directly into the canyon walls.
Petrified Forest National Park (80 miles east) – This unique national park protects one of the world’s largest concentrations of petrified wood, along with archaeological sites and badlands scenery. The park spans both sides of Interstate 40, making it accessible for Two Guns visitors.
